On the Loose at Vic Falls

The star of the show, Mosi-oa-Tunya, meaning “smoke that thunders”, plunges over a hundred metre precipice sending up a spray plume that can rise half a kilometre high and be seen from as far as seventy kilometres away.

Gruesome Twosome

In full flood the Zambezi River spews out a mind boggling 550 million litres of water per minute over the knife edge into an abyss that is on average 93 metres deep. It’s little wonder that the falls are such a magnet for adrenaline junkies and sightseers alike. The menu of activities is dizzying, from the “gruesome twosome” of a 111m bungee jump and the most thrilling white water rafting in the world, to interactive elephant back trails and microlight flips, to stunning sunset cruises and canoeing on the upper reaches of the Zambezi.

Gazing out of the plane's window I had to pinch myself as we flew across the two kilometre wide expanse of the Zambezi River towards Livingston on the Zambian side. My sister and I were on a whirlwind Thelma & Louise style getaway - a birthday surprise from her. Leaving kids, pooches, projects and partners behind for a few days, I had an inkling we were in for a double dose of fun and adrenaline - my speculation was an understatement!

The sun sets on yet another beautiful day on the Zambezi

A river runs to it

We were met at Livingston airport by Indaba, a friendly and articulate guide who chattered away telling us interesting and helpful titbits about the town of Livingston, the border posts and bridge, changing money and orientating us to the near ghost town of Victoria Falls on our way to the Victoria Falls Safari Lodge. “Interesting,” he laughed; when he heard the activities we had planned. The penny dropped – we had to get organised if we wanted to take advantage of the package of the Sundowners Cruise and five adventure activities that we had booked with Shearwater Adventures. Arriving at the lodge we were welcomed with amazing African hospitality and helpfulness – in 15 minutes we had checked in, changed our sunset cruise booking to that evening, stashed our luggage and were jauntily on our way to the river. Drummers, dancers, mbira (finger piano) musicians and singers performed on the shore as we boarded the cruise boat. Time to catch our breath; we kicked back, gin and tonic in one hand, camera or binoculars in the other as the boat cruised upstream at a leisurely pace. One of the musicians, an athletic and exotically attired guy, was perched on the bow functioning as our figurehead and spotter, pointing out wallowing hippos, beady-eyed crocodiles, a big herd of elephant crossing the river and individuals grazing on the islands. The intense sunset mirrored on the river was truly sublime. Too soon the huge red sun slipped away we drifted down to our mooring.

Aaaaaa... swinging off the bridge takes you right across the gorge

Pool & barstool with a view

Back at the lodge the atmosphere was mellow; folk were luxuriating in the warm evening air, soaking up the view of the waterhole and landscape of expansive Mopane woodlands from the pool, Buffalo Bar or dinner table. We were famished and wasted no time tucking into the lodge’s delicious signature dishes including an interesting crocodile and mango curry washed down with Zimbabwean white wine. Rising early the next morning, we grabbed binoculars and sat watching the sunrise from our deck. As we slurped our coffee we spotted a few kudu slinking away beneath us. Warthogs, bushbuck and impala were dotted around the landscape and a herd of buffalo were making their way to drink at the waterhole. Enormous Marabou stalks and vultures were roosting in the treetops. At breakfast we continued to watch the spectacle and then headed straight for Shearwater headquarters to arrange our activities. It was so hard to choose, there are so many amazing things to do. The aptly named Patience was a dream – she efficiently organised our itinerary and soon we were off on another adventure.

Elephants at the waterhole - Sidulu hide, Vic Falls Safari Lodge

Big air, falling angels & dudes in drag

Armed with passports we strolled across the bridge to the Zambian side and joined a merry band of backpackers dressed in drag who were waiting to jump. “Bungee?” asked the coordinator as we filled out indemnity forms. “Slide please, we want to fly like a bird, not drop like a stone,” nearly brought down the rustic little hut. The two guides who assisted us strongly advised us to lean back in a horizontal position so that we would reach the other side. We whizzed across the gorge on the foefie slide - the view of the rapids below and sheer cliff faces was exhilarating. Walking back underneath the 103 year-old bridge afforded a bird’s eye view of a bizarre sight - a dude dressed in a lacy long black dress plummeting into the darkness.

Meetings with remarkably big trees

Next up was a walking tour in the Victoria Falls Park. I loved the lack of commercialisation in the park, there are no crowds and the views are simply stunning on the Zimbabwean side – nearly 100% better than on the Zambian side. We counted numerous rainbows and got drenched in the welcome spray while taking in the magnificent power of the falls from various viewpoints. Red dragonflies buzzed about, bright-eyed banded mongooses peered at us amongst colourful wildflowers, a shy bushbuck nibbled on emerald foliage, birds fluttered about and monkeys clambered in the date palms and treetops of the dense riverine forest of ancient mahogany, fig and ebony trees. On the way back to town we stopped at the “Big Tree”, an enormous Baobab with a colourful history that’s 1 500 years old. In the late 1800’s it was the meeting place for intrepid pioneers to stay overnight before continuing to the Old Drift Settlement, now Livingston. Seeing it in the dry season without leaves it is easy to understand the African myth of the angry god that uprooted the Baobab trees and then relented and replanted them upside down.

With no time for lunch, we zoomed off for a date with elephants in the Nakavango Private Game Reserve... To be continued in our next issue!

In low water season the Main Falls are less obscured by spray

Where can I stay?

Go to the Zimbabwean side now – there are loads of good affordable offers, you'll be far from the madding  crowds, it's very safe and the people are as hospitable and charming as ever. Lodges in Vic Falls, Zimbabwe
Keen for a Zambian experience? There are many knock-out lodges and other options to suit your pocket on the Livingston side of Vic Falls.
Check out Top Spots Now for great reviews from customers who have stayed on both sides.

Money?

Your best bet is to take US dollars for both sides. Credit cards and even travellers cheques can be problematic - you can't use them on the Zimbabwean side except for settling bills at the lodges & hotels (only certain credit cards). Find out which cards are acceptable to the lodge before you leave home.

Victoria Falls Part 2 - the adventure continues...

Text: Samantha Black
Photos: Vic Falls Safari Lodge & Samantha Black